PIVOT BLOCKS, SPRING HANGERS, AND PIVOT BLOCK SEATS

 
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:51 pm    Post subject: PIVOT BLOCKS, SPRING HANGERS, AND PIVOT BLOCK SEATS Reply with quote

PIVOT BLOCKS..
On top of your center bolt is a poly block that rides on a curved steel seat on the chassis. This pivot block of poly material similar to leaf spring bushings only a bit harder, and it does wear. We have seen the center pivot blocks on the spring packs go 100,000 kms and more. We have also seen them ruined in 10,000 by someone traveling too hard, too fast, too high of tyre pressure, or some other extreme abuse like overloading beyond the design weight.

In all fairness, this is a maintenance issue, but if you do not like the maintenance, then slow down and run softer. It is really as simple as that. But any way, you drop the spring packs to have a look at this. You need to put the van up on four jack stands on the chassis to hold it just high enough so that the suspension arms just start to drop a little. Leave the tyres on, and you just jack it up enough so that the spring is not carrying the weight and the suspension arms start to drop, and place a proper jack stand under all four corners of the van. Then there are only two bolts on each spring hanger on each end of the spring and the spring falls straight down. These directions will allow you to direct a proper mechanic to do this for you.

SPRING HANGERS
If you do change out the springs or pivot blocks: One more issue is to be careful how you put the spring hangers back on... If you are not doing it, make sure they understand: Mark them first as they are MATCHED AND DIRECTION. The spring actually wears into them, when new they creak and and squeak a bit as they wear in.. Anyway they have a slight camber to encourage that process. As it wears in the surface area greatly increases until it nearly covers the hanger surface and the wear goes down to a minimum with a larger surface area of contact... Match them in place and direction. Mark them with something that will last the effort.

New suspension technology is allowing vehicles to run harder over the corrugation. Higher springs, longer spring travel, shock technology, new suspensions, longer leaves and coils, adjustable air bag systems; these things are all conspiring to allow more comfort in the tow vehicle, but what it really means is people are able to travel faster and harder on the corrugation. This results in excessive wear on the pivot blocks.

Now mind you, it is only a hard hour or easy two hour job or so. But I would suggest that if you are experiencing this, you need to slow down or lighten the load. You could just be running heavy instead of too fast, but in either case if you do not correct the situation, it will reoccur.

PIVOT BLOCK SEATS
One more issue is that if you let the spring pivot block go to long, the centre bolt will actually wear into or wear away the curved seat welded on the chassis. If that happens you will have to grind it off and weld on a new seat. If you want to make your own seats: It is a curved piece of steel, about a 100mm diameter circle, a quarter of the circle that is 90 mm long and 64mm wide of about 5mm steel, not much too it, we can send you directions to make your own or mail you a set of 2. But it is better not to abuse the gear in the first place. But it is not a drama to fix it if you find this condition exists from letting the pivot blocks wear too long. In reality it is a small repair.

Regards, LR
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