WATER STERILIZATION, HOW AND WHY.....

 
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 1:01 pm    Post subject: WATER STERILIZATION, HOW AND WHY..... Reply with quote

Water sterilisation units:

The need for this level of equipment has only become of major importance in the last few years as birds and bats started spreading a number of bacteria, viruses, and organisms air-born on roofs, etcetera. The other problem is the extreme level of tourism from overseas. They have not been educated to bury their personal business and many waterways are getting polluted when it rains and washes into the creeks and rivers. You can of course be careful and just live with the dual potable and non-potable water system, which conserves your drinking water while using a local water source and separate plumbing system for the showers and washing up. JUST DO NOT THINK THAT A SIMPLE FILTER SYSTEM CAN FILTER OUT SUB MICRO VIRUSES LIKE HEPATITUS BECAUSE IT CANNOT Shocked !!! Hepatitis is one of the most common pollutants to be wary of, and has to be UV Sterilized. I know of what I speak, I caught it out of a clear mountain stream in 1973, and cannot afford to catch it again. This is why I put together several Companies Products to build this system... Out of need.

We only recommend the full water sterilisation unit if you hit one of three criteria:
1) If you have any health problem that can depress the immune system like diabetes, heart disease, Lupus, or other health problem, you cannot afford to pick up bad water. Something like Hepatitis could be fatal. Giardia could be three weeks in hospital.
2) The second criteria is if you are going to have children or grandchildren along..
3) The third criteria is if you have a "hot-spot" hobby. Doesn't matter if it is gold nugget fossicking or barramundi fishing, if you have had a long dry spell and then get into a good area, you aren't going to leave until you are down to your last cup of water and last can of beans! The water sterilisation unit allows to you have the personal freedom of being able to make your own good drinking water from just about any source.

Me? I qualify for all three... Only the kids are grown up now, but still.....

It involves placement near an external hatch, pre-filtration with a high-pressure pump and reusable ceramic cleanable filtration, high-pressure secondary carbon filtration for chemicals like trace pesticides or herbicides, and then 2700-angstrom ultra-violet in a stainless housed sterilisation unit. The primary ceramic filtration turns coffee brown and the flow rate decreases as it packs up; you then take it down to the creek with a sponge and scrub it off in about 30 seconds and it turns white again. This would normally be enough for most micro organisms, the problem is that one of the most serious is the Hepatitis Virus. It's not only the smallest as a virus, but also a sub-micro-virus even smaller, in fact it is a Sub-Micro-Virus below the scale of even high pressure ceramic filtration. In that same scale is the spores of Botulism from dead animals in the water which at the right timing can also be a problem. So, after the filtration is the 2700 Angstrom U.V. unit that fries everything in the radiation bath at two litres a minute. This process is done on the way into the tanks, so you don't pollute the tanks. You bucket water from the creek into a 20 litre mud crab pot and the system sucks it out of that and fills the drinking water tank or tanks. In a pinch you can also sterilise the non-potable water you have by draining it into the buckets the same way. The system costs $2500 installed and requires an inverter for use off solar.

How the system works:
- The primary system is dual stage filtration with a cleanable ceramic filtration and a high pressure pump. The secondary system is 2700 angstrom ultraviolet which biologically sterilises the water at 2 litres a minute. There are three hoses in the system. We suggest drawing water out of a 20 litre pot or bucket on the ground. The intake hose goes to the pump. .... It pumps into the potable water tank.. In a pinch you could even drain water out of the non-drinking tanks and sterilize that, if there was no water source available. Understand that the basic principle is to sterilize the water before it goes into your drinking water tank, not after, as you do not want to pollute the tank and plumbing, so you can put good city water in their when you have the opportunity. And follow these instructions:
- If the system is run dry, you must first prime the pump with the pump priming valve, it is on a hose coming out of a "T" after the pump, let it pump out into the bucket until it is running free. At two litres a minute, you should be able to see the water level going down. Then you must bleed the air out of the filters and flush the filters. That comes from a "T" after the filters and must be dumped out on the ground for the first 10 litres. You should do this each time you use the system, or change, or clean the filters; and dump the first 10 litres of water. When not in use for more than two weeks, the filters should be shaken out and stored dry. The ceramic filter can be externally cleaned whenever you notice that the flow rate drops. It can be gently scrubbed with a household sponge and it goes back white again.
- Take care to prevent the U.V. chamber (stainless housing on top) from running dry. Keep pouring water from buckets into the large pot or bucket that you have the suction hose going to. Ensure that the U.V. chamber is not lit until you have water to it. It runs on a 240v source from either an inverter or 240v mains power.

If you think you hit the category of wanting this system, we can talk more about it when you come for a visit to Bushtracker...

Regards from the Ranger...
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hillocksjp



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Steve,
The water sterilisation unit sounds really great. Is it capable of taking out small amounts of salt as found in some of the brackish streams and lakes?
Kind regards
John
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry,
In a nutshell, no.... Sad

In technical engineering terms, if you want to know why: This is a biological sterilization unit, emphasis on hepatitis virus and other common contaminants that can make you very sick... And what cannot be filtered is fried by 2700 Angstrom UV..

Taking out dissolved minerals requires another kind of system, usually reverse osmosis where the semi-permeable membrane is constantly flushed to wash away the salt molecules, usually on about a 10-20 to 1 litre of water making basis, like on yachts.

One system does not do both very well, as the reverse osmosis lets through hepatitis virus as the virus is much smaller than the salt molecules it blocks... And in the sterilization system, it does not remove the dissolved minerals like salt...

To do both requires a big generator.. I mean BIIIIGG generator, like on a Nuclear Submarine... I would like a little one ton plutonium "fuel cell" power pack, but the government won't let me have one... Can you believe that... Laughing Laughing
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AJ and LJ



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 2:39 pm    Post subject: sterilization units Reply with quote

In reading this article this unit would only really be used in an emergency situation where there is no access to town or tank water at 2ltrs a minute ,thats about 50 mins to fill 100ltr tank. Would the Batteries handle this amount in one go or would you have to start the genny..Can you use the filter part of this unit only, like when filling from a town water source. As on a previous van I had 2 filters on it, on the way into and Out of the water tank and it made a hell of a diference to some town water.I guess it dose not matter which way you do it but,Can your pump handle going through filters on the way out of a tank? This is just one of the exras I am concidering. Anyone out there with one tell me if they use it often enough to warrent the expence.Thanks Al.

Hello Al,
It takes about an hour to fill a potable water tank...
If you are in the sunlight, mid day, sort of 10-2, then you can do it on solar quite well without running the system down...

If not, in the shade, then a genset is the way to go..
Regards, stg
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notes1952



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:16 pm    Post subject: Re: sterilization units Reply with quote

I would think that it is always important to have the filtration on the fill side of the tank so as to minimise the risk of contamination to the tank. Once the dirt etc is in the tank it is very much harder to remove & filtration would always be required, even from town supply.

Dave.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is not a bad idea Dave, just don't let it lull you into complacency. The most common problem and risk is hepatitus, and you cannot filter that out. That is why the U.V. Sterilization after the ceramic filtration at high pressure. And to do that off batteries and solar independent power, you can only do it at about 2 litres per minute so we only route it to the drinking water tank.

Filters alone will not do it, sub .2 micron virus, that is why it is so contagious. Hep virus entering a human cell is like throwing a pencil into the barn..

Anyway, prefilter will do a lot of things, but not the most serious, as long as you realize the limitations.. Bush water is suspect all the time now..

OK with that?
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AJ and LJ



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:03 pm    Post subject: WATER STERILIZATION, HOW AND WHY..... Reply with quote

Thanks for a good and honest comentary on this.But as a young Wringer in remote Aust. we often boiled our quart pot from a hoof print of water (hopefully thinking it was water)for a cup of tea, But we boiled it.So if say , you could filter water to some extent or even not at all, and did not mind the colour of it and boiled it, does it still kill all the bacteria that we speek of???,
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes Alan,
Botulism, Giardia, Hepatitus, to name the common really baddies, can be done with a rolling boil. They say ten minutes in Medical Journals, but that is a bit overkill, with the fizzle of boil starting to the rolling boil sort of approaching 10 minutes then yes you can do this. I carry a 20 litre stainless crab pot when in remote bush...

The problem in Frytol Oil cans of campers and 4x4 clubs, is the heavy metals coming off from your tin billy affair. The heavy metals of tin plating accumulate and tax your system to try and cleanse them out. Aluminium also is a worry, as Alzheimers Patients have 1000% more alumina in the brain than do non-Alzheimers. Don't start a controversy arguing that one, as it is about 50-50% in the medical community, if cooking with aluminium is the cause, or a pre-dispostion to accumulate with genetics is the cause..

Anyway, boiling drinking water IS possible, just a lot of work and time and danger. Put a 20 litre on the boil everynight, cover it and let it set til cold in the morning, and add it to your drinking water tank is definitely a way to go. Most people that have more money than desire to spend the time and work will do the easy way with the Sterilization system. But the boil the BBB (big bloody billy) is a way to go if you use stainless.

No worries, lone Ranger did it for years....
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tolemac



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:04 pm    Post subject: Water Filtration Reply with quote

My 2002 BT which I purchased 2nd hand came with a B.E.S.T. filter system installed with an electrical silver producing system plumbed in to fill the tanks with. I'm now investigating what this actually does and what my best course of action is now to ensure I"m getting the best filtration. Was the B.E.S.T. brand what Bushtracker supplied and installed in 2002, or would the owner it was built for chose it and had it installed? What are the current BT recommendations?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea,
Sorry, not supplied by us....

Now, what I suggest is you read over the Posts in this Topic, and understand the difference between cosmetic taste type filters, and the ones that are major health related.. You need to understand the BIG difference.

I know, I know, there is a lot of talk about the silver filters, got that. However, people have caught Hepatitis off a yacht with reverse osmosis water makers in Hong Kong Harbour!!! Hepatitis is a smaller virus than the molecules of salt that are filtered out with reverse osmosis systems.. I only trust the U.V. after the ceramic filtration system we use... The pressure ceramic does all the baddies down to sub-micro viruses.

The problem is that Hep is a Sub Micro Virus... Like so small below normal virus, that it is like throwing a pin into the barn door of a human cell... You can only kill that with U.V. Ultra Violet at 2700 Angstrom is very high intensity, NSTE radiation (Not Safe To the Eye U.V.) and it sterilizes ALL... I know the silver type filters kill micro organisms, silver is a fair killer of the smaller bacteriological type things that can make you sick.. But Hepatitis is a serious disease, can kill you, and I only trust U.V. from 40 years of study since I got it myself out of a clear running stream...

Read more about this system in the Owners Section...

On this one, if the lone Ranger has his doubts, to be on the safe side I would follow his lead...
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