Emergency Road Side Fuel Filter Service, 100 and 200 Series

 
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:10 pm    Post subject: Emergency Road Side Fuel Filter Service, 100 and 200 Series Reply with quote

Hulloo Friends, Because of all your fine words of appreciation, I extend this further...

Since Toyota is our most common Tow Vehicle, like maybe 90%, I have decided to Coach you on the most important maintenance thing you need to be able to do on the engine, in the Bush... Fuel filters, and you should carry several spares and know how to change them, as a bad batch of fuel (can happen) could force you to change them every 100-200 kms.. On the 100 Series even, water will ruin the injection pump and blow injectors and cause thousands of dollars in damage. Just dirty fuel and: Algae and fuel fungus can plug your filter and leave you stranded..

On the later 100 Series Turbo, and the 200 Series, they are even more sensitive... These modern diesels, called the "common rail" referring to the injection pump, have electronically fired and timed injectors, and all of these modern diesels require three things to operate: Clean fuel x 3.... Most engine breakdowns will be from water in the fuel that BLOWS the injection system, or algae and fungus build up plugging the filters, and you are stranded along the road. It is true with all the main vehicles these days, and since the 200 Series is without a doubt our most common tow vehicle (80% at least), I have decided to Coach you on the single most important maintenance that you can do for this great engine.

Those of you that want to fob this off as unnecessary, think twice, as fuel filters change out, are NOT always included in the normal Toyota Factory Warranty Service, as a matter of Toyota Policy. After almost 9000 kms, like only 300 kms after a Servide, mine threw a Code on the dash and I had to attend to it myself and then clear the Code. I firmly suggest all of you carry 3-4 spare fuel filters, as you can get a bad load of diesel in the Bush and have to change them every few hundred kms in the worst case scenario.

Here is the Proceedure: Your filter housing is located on the passenger side up near the bonnet hinge point:



Now filters are cheap, and this is the standup easiest maintenance to do, and failure with water or such as I have said can damage the engine or stop you in a bad place on the road... You only need this allen key, for the three top screws that hold on filter housing. I am using a cute little ratchet operated allen key for the machine screw and the top come right off. The filter is a simple drop in cartrige, with a simple o-ring to place on top:



Then you simply screw the top back on and it clamps down over the o-ring that comes with the filter. For priming filter or bleeding out air, or pushing out water. There is a black round knob on top of the filter, and you push down on it, pump is built into the filter housing for priming. It takes some power, grab the filter housing and use your thumb to pump it. To bleed it of air, there is a marked hose on top that shows the exit point and you simply squeeze the clamp and mostly slide off the hose so you can prime out the air with the pump on top. (Per the picture below showing me doing it.) After priming, clean fuel coming out: Push the hose and clamp back on and you are done.

If it was water in the fuel, to bleed out the water, there is a little petcock on the bottom of the filter, white, and it projects out the side at the bottom back side.. With the petcock open, it will push out any water as the water is heavier than fuel and goes to the bottom. Close the petcock and you are done...



Now, if it threw a Code warning on the dash, there is a trick to clearing the code. Undo the top warning switch, lifting the little locking tab with a fine screwdriver and pull it out... Then swiftly (they say 30 seconds) turn on the ignition, (I just started the engine). After starting the engine, in about 60 seconds walk back and plug in the plug. Then stop and start the engine once to make sure the Code cleared. Mine worked a treat..



Hope this has been a help. It is definitely one of the maintenance things you NEED TO BE ABLE TO DO YOURSELF.. It should not be a drama, easy, not hard.. Look, clean fuel is dead important, changing your filter is important. Also water in the fuel can absolutely KILL these new diesels, over ten thousand in damages and it will not be covered by Warranty if you drive it through into destruction. If the alarms work well, the water in the fuel with not only be a Code, but the warning will start flashing. IF YOU GET THE FLASHING WARNING DO NOT DRIVE IT TO GET HELP, STOP AND FIX IT. IF WATER IS THERE, YOU COULD MUNCH THE ENGINE.

For water you do not need to open up the filter housing as above... Just open the bottom petcock, and pump the pump on top to flush out the water. It will be clear, or murky, where the fuel is clear to light amber or greenish depending on brand ... You can tell by looking at that petcock as you pump it.... Water or fuel.. Fuel is also oily and smells like diesel, you can feel the difference.

Hope this is a help and gets you out of trouble in the Outback... On the road with the Ranger Wink

*******************************************

ON THE 100 SERIES:

This one if for BobNLyn.... Per request....
Sorry a bit late, been getting ready for our 4th and hopefully BEST DVD ever, available around Christmas... Been a bit busy..



For those of you with the 100 Series, this is a lot simpler, less high tech so to speak... The filter is basically in the same position, and uses the same pump, but the filter itself is a spin on... Here are a few tricks you need to be aware of: It is a spin on filter, but double ended, and the water sensor is at the bottom.. (Here shown an aftermarket Donaldson filter, but they are the same as the stock Toyota one only cheaper)



Now, you have to unplug that water sensor, here is what it looks like, a short wire to a connector undone much the same as on the 200 series with just a locking tab you have to undo.. In theory you could unscrew that first from the bottom of the filter, but I find it much easier done to unscrew the entire filter with it left on, that is why you have to unplug it first... Wink



You may need a filter wrench to get it started, then hand unthread as shown. Slightly lube the O-Ring seal with a little diesel, hand tighten the water sensor and then hand tighten the whole filter back in place to put it back on. Make sure you do not cross thread it, it should spin on effortlessly until it bottoms out on the o-ring.. That is usually enough but some people are stronger than others so: The rule of thumb is hand tighten as hard as you can, then use a filter wrench to turn it about another 1/2 turn... Get the filter wrench ( el cheapo) of the webbing band and the ratchet end sort for attachment to a socket ratchet..) Wink



Now the pump is basically the same, and in the same location as the 200 Series shown above. Make sure to prime the filter, you undo the hose that goes TO the engine.. The clamp is easy, just a squeeze clamp and slide the hose most of the way off so you can pump out the air as you fill the filter. It could be 30 or 40 pumps til you get diesel, then slide the hose back on as you pump the last, and move the clamp back over the hose... Wink



You are done... No worries, and the lone Road Ranger suggest you carry a few extra filters.... Never know, and it is cheap insurance..

Kind regards, on the road......
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BobNLyn



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Steve!

Thanks for going that extra mile for us 100 Series owners... Once Again

Bob
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grant2



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 7:02 pm    Post subject: UHF Vehicle Radio Reply with quote

Hey Steve

Where have you mounted your UHF radio and what make & model have you installed in your Sahara.

I have put it in the Topic on the most common tow vehicle (200 Series)

TOP MOST COMMON BUSHTRACKER TOW VEHICLE 2009-10-11- Now 2012


And WELCOME TO THE FORUM, POST NUMBER 1!

On the road, Ranger
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Grant2,

2200 kms into a fair sized R&D trip testing the robustness and performance of a new air bag suspension, new LED interior lights, and a half a dozen other goodies. Topics in the Owners Section to come on performance results, and anyways I am back today in civilization in Broken Hill.. Sahara and 14' Poptop, VX and 21' Family Bushtracker are both performing admirably well.

Back on Topic, no hijacks here please, I have done something different with the mandatory UHF in three of my last R&D vehicles. I installed a full scale antennae on the Bullbar, but only a good GME Handheld on velcroe on the centre console, with enough slack left on antennae hook up and power cable to pick it up off the velcroe.



I could have put in the remote head anywhere with the UHF body under the dash, but I like the versatility of unscrewing the externat antennae and unplugging the car charger, and putting on the stock stubby antennae and then I am mobile. I like the ability to have a couple of them, that work in car or out with me. This is particularly good in this case now where I am filming our next DVD and the performance of this new Air Suspension with three people.

The performance is the roughly the same as a built in model, only like I say it is totally portable. Why GME? Look, it does not matter much these days, but when I bought these the Techies thought GME had the most robust working frame for the Bush, and it was repairable in Australia. Purely a practical choice. You will have to enquire with the repair shops now to see what the current conditions are as this is a bit out of date...

I also have a couple of kids models to keep track of them out of the vehicle. I again put the charger on velcroe, and velcro backs on the smaller UHFs, and plug the charger into the Sahara's on board 100w inverter built into the back:



The Velcroe sticks nicely to the Outback Drawer system I chose. With regards to the UHF style shown, I am not saying this is best, or the only way, this was just my personal choice for the portable reasons stated.

Hope this a help, on the road with the Ranger...
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Thoura



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for this info. Water in my fuel in the N.T. Followed your advice /procedure and all now ok. I carry three filters since first reading your post
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the kind words of appreciation.
It makes my work and research all worth while, when I feel I am helping People by trying to smooth the track ahead... Happy Trails...

Kind regards, on the road, Ranger
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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2019 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, seven years after writing this, it has happened to me on my 2014 Sahara! And yes, embarrassingly I had forgotten how to do this and had to look up my own Post to remember the shortcuts.. Embarassed

Now what, 80% of our tow vehicles in the past ten years are the 200 Series, or variations on that Landcruiser V-8 diesel. The most sensitive part of the engine is the injection system, and if you get water in it, it can be a $12,000 job to fix it!! I was driving along, and the fuel filter warning light came on. I stopped at a station, and drained the bung down below, white, it un-threads, and let a little diesel out on the mudguard. There were a few small drops of water in it, but it was mostly diesel, so OK!

For those of you that don't know, water is heavier than diesel, so sinks to the bottom of the filter housing. There is a water sensor there, but don't count on it, I would check it by draining a little out of the bottom now and then.. Anyway, no water, must be a bad filter... It ran fine so I continued to drive it to the nights rest spot, and then reviewed this post to remind myself of the procedure and shortcuts.. Here is an important review:

****************************************************

Your filter housing is located on the passenger side up near the bonnet hinge point: The water drain is on the bottom, opposite the side where the wiring comes into the sensor..



Now filters are cheap, and this is the stand up easiest maintenance to do, and failure with water or such as I have said can damage the engine or stop you in a bad place on the road... You only need this allan key, for the three top screws that hold on filter housing. In this picture I am using a cute little ratchet operated allan key for the machine screw and the top come right off. The filter is a simple drop in cartridge, with a simple o-ring to place on top:



As it turns out, I had gotten a bad slug of diesel and the filter was black with gunk and algae or fungus. I will probably put in a 100 ml of Fuel Doctor in with the next fill up..

Then with the new filter in place, you simply screw the top back on and it clamps down over the o-ring that comes with the filter. For priming filter or bleeding out air, or pushing out water. There is a black round knob on top of the filter, and you push down on it, pump is built into the filter housing for priming. It takes some power, grab the filter housing and use your thumb to pump it. To bleed it of air, there is a marked hose on top that shows the exit point and you simply squeeze the clamp and mostly slide off the hose so you can prime out the air with the pump on top. (Per the picture below showing me doing it.) After priming, clean fuel coming out: Push the hose and clamp back on and you are done.

If it was water in the fuel, to bleed out the water, as I said there is a little petcock on the bottom of the filter, white, and it projects out the side at the bottom back side.. With the petcock open, You can push down repeatedly on the pump at the top and it will push out any water (as the water is heavier than fuel and goes to the bottom). Close the petcock and you are done... In my case clean fuel with only a couple of droplets of water came out, there was no need to pump it until I got clean fuel out...



Now, if it threw a Code warning on the dash, there is a trick to clearing the code. Undo the top warning switch, lifting the little locking tab with a fine screwdriver and pull it out... Then swiftly (they say 30 seconds) turn on the ignition, (I just started the engine). After starting the engine, in about 60 seconds walk back and plug in the plug. Then stop and start the engine once to make sure the Code cleared. Mine worked a treat..



Hope this has been a help. It is definitely one of the maintenance things you NEED TO BE ABLE TO DO YOURSELF.. It should not be a drama, easy, not hard.. Look, clean fuel is dead important, changing your filter is important. Also water in the fuel can absolutely KILL these new diesels, over ten thousand in damages and it will not be covered by Warranty if you drive it through into destruction. If the alarms work well, the water in the fuel with not only be a Code, but the warning will start flashing. IF YOU GET THE FLASHING WARNING DO NOT DRIVE IT TO GET HELP, STOP AND FIX IT. IF WATER IS THERE, YOU COULD MUNCH THE ENGINE.

For water you do not need to open up the filter housing as above... Just open the bottom petcock, and pump the pump on top to flush out the water. It will be clear, or murky, where the fuel is clear to light amber or greenish depending on brand ... You can tell by looking at that petcock as you pump it.... Water or fuel.. Fuel is also oily and smells like diesel, you can feel the difference.

Hope this is a help and gets you out of trouble in the Outback... And note: I would carry about a half dozen of these filters. You do not have to buy the expensive Toyota ones, Fleetguard makes them at a fraction of the price.. In any case, if you got a bad slug of diesel it could take a few filter changes to clean up the tank full..

Kind regards, Steven Gibbs, Director
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Bronco



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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2019 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Steve

I tried a google search on Fleetguard for the fuel filter you spoke about in your post, but as usual with me and Google I wasn't able to find the filter. Would you be able to post a direct link of where you buy your filters from please. Thanks in advance Cowboy.
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Grumpy



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2019 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I buy my filters from Repco, either Repco or Ryco branded. RACQ members get 10% discount, however I usually buy when regular 30% discount promotions occur.
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Louie100



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2019 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a heavy vehicle mechanic for many years and now days working in the diesel fuel pump and injection industry, I will only use genuine fuel filters, or perhaps Fleetguard or Donaldson if that is all that is available. Some of the others on the market are so poorly manufactured that they can and do allow serious contamination of the fuel system especially with modern common rail Diesel engines.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bronco wrote:
Hi Steve

I tried a google search on Fleetguard for the fuel filter you spoke about in your post, but as usual with me and Google I wasn't able to find the filter. Would you be able to post a direct link of where you buy your filters from please. Thanks in advance Cowboy.


Call into a Truck Shop that carries Fleetguard, they make the filters for the likes of Cummins and such, the same micron filtration as Original Manufacturer Equipment but around a quarter the price. They are a big Company now, and do match OME, in fact were bought by Cummins Diesel, and do most truck brands down to the likes of Landcruiser as well. I get mine from Sunshine Coast Truck Spares, around the corner from us in Kunda Park.

No longer competing horses, but still named Cowboy in the Harley Owners Group for “Iron Horses”.. Wink


Last edited by Bushtracker on Mon Jun 03, 2019 9:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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Loki of Condor



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here’s an online shop:

http://brettstruck1.mobile034.com/p/9206612/fe21502-fuel-filter-for-toyota-v8-land-crusier-ac-delcoacf137-blue-printadt32389-donaldsonp506036-fleetguardff5765-fsa-nippartsn1332099-rycor2657p-sakuraf11130-23390-17540-toyota23390-51020-23390-51070-wesfilwcf95-.html
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you to you both.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2019 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Louie100 wrote:
As a heavy vehicle mechanic for many years and now days working in the diesel fuel pump and injection industry, I will only use genuine fuel filters, or perhaps Fleetguard or Donaldson if that is all that is available. Some of the others on the market are so poorly manufactured that they can and do allow serious contamination of the fuel system especially with modern common rail Diesel engines.


45 years in marine and truck diesels, Louie, I am with you, but with this exception: Fleetguard has grown to epic proportions, because they build to the micron level of "Original Equipment" at about 1/4 the cost. Most fuel filters these days are down to the 5 micron level of filtration with the OME, some down to 2 micron, and Fleetguard matches it. They are big time now, I mean some Chev, Dodge, and Ford filters, even some Landcruiser filters are up in the $100 range, and Fleetguard are in the $15-$20 range. I would not hesitate to use them for any vehicles...

I even use them on my new Dodge Longhorn 3500 MegaCab full custom truck air over suspension and all the rest..



This Ram is so rare, and so well equipped, SCD claim it is the most optioned up Dodge Ram ever imported to Australia.. Note that I am not bragging, the point is I would not risk it to anything questionable and it is running Fleetguard.

Best regards, Steven Gibbs, diesel junkie...
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Roachie



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably a timely reminder that fitting a PRE-filtration system is a wise idea too.

Plenty has already been written on this subject, so I won't bore you with details....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ8DOCpJEBE

In my own case I have fitted a FASS 150 which combines a lift pump, water separator and pre-filter all-in-one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4LCbGsujdU&t=1005s

Roachie
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