200 Series Emergency Fuel Filter Service and Code Clearing

 
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Am I going to far here on the Forum?
Yes, this is the responsibility of the Owners, they should know this already
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NO, Keep up the Good Work, we can use all the help we can get...
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:08 pm    Post subject: 200 Series Emergency Fuel Filter Service and Code Clearing Reply with quote

Hello Friends, This is an Emergency fix...
I have made it a Poll to see if you want this extended help on the Forum or if you feel it is unnecessary.. It is in the Category TIPS ON TOW VEHICLES in the Topic on MOST COMMON TOW VEHICLE FOR BUSHTRACKERS. I have also put it here for the purposes of this Poll:

These modern diesels, called the "common rail" refering to the injection pump, have electronically fired and timed injectors, and all of these modern diesels require three things to operate: Clean fuel x 3.... Most engine breakdowns will be from water in the fuel that BLOWS the injection system, or algae and fungus build up plugging the filters, and you are stranded along the road. It is true with all the main vehicles these days, and since the 200 Series is without a doubt our most common tow vehicle (80% at least), I have decided to Coach you on the single most important maintenance that you can do for this great engine.

Those of you that want to fob this off as unnecessary, think twice, as fuel filters change out, are NOT always included in the normal Toyota Factory Warranty Service, as a matter of Toyota Policy. After almost 9000 kms, like only 300 kms after a Servide, mine threw a Code on the dash and I had to attend to it myself and then clear the Code. I firmly suggest all of you carry 3-4 spare fuel filters, as you can get a bad load of diesel in the Bush and have to change them every few hundred kms in the worst case scenario.

Here is the Proceedure: Your filter housing is located on the passenger side up near the bonnet hinge point:



Now filters are cheap, and this is the standup easiest maintenance to do, and failure with water or such as I have said can damage the engine or stop you in a bad place on the road... You only need this allen key, for the three top screws that hold on filter housing. I am using a cute little ratchet operated allen key for the machine screw and the top come right off. The filter is a simple drop in cartrige, with a simple o-ring to place on top:



Then you simply screw the top back on and it clamps down over the o-ring that comes with the filter. For priming filter or bleeding out air, or pushing out water. There is a black round knob on top of the filter, and you push down on it, pump is built into the filter housing for priming. It takes some power, grab the filter housing and use your thumb to pump it. To bleed it of air, there is a marked hose on top that shows the exit point and you simply squeeze the clamp and mostly slide off the hose so you can prime out the air with the pump on top. (Per the picture below showing me doing it.) After priming, clean fuel coming out: Push the hose and clamp back on and you are done.

If it was water in the fuel, to bleed out the water, there is a little petcock on the bottom of the filter, white, and it projects out the side at the bottom back side.. With the petcock open, it will push out any water as the water is heavier than fuel and goes to the bottom. Close the petcock and you are done...



Now, if it threw a Code warning on the dash, there is a trick to clearing the code. Undo the top warning switch, lifting the little locking tab with a fine screwdriver and pull it out... Then swiftly (they say 30 seconds) turn on the ignition, (I just started the engine). After starting the engine, in about 60 seconds walk back and plug in the plug. Then stop and start the engine once to make sure the Code cleared. Mine worked a treat..



Hope this has been a help. It is definitely one of the maintenance things you NEED TO BE ABLE TO DO YOURSELF.. It should not be a drama, easy, not hard.. Look, clean fuel is dead important, changing your filter is important. Also water in the fuel can absolutely KILL these new diesels, over ten thousand in damages and it will not be covered by Warranty if you drive it through into destruction. If the alarms work well, the water in the fuel with not only be a Code, but the warning will start flashing. IF YOU GET THE FLASHING WARNING DO NOT DRIVE IT TO GET HELP, STOP AND FIX IT. IF WATER IS THERE, YOU COULD MUNCH THE ENGINE.

For water you do not need to open up the filter housing as above... Just open the bottom petcock, and pump the pump on top to flush out the water. It will be clear, or murky, where the fuel is clear to light amber or greenish depending on brand ... You can tell by looking at that petcock as you pump it.... Water or fuel.. Fuel is also oily and smells like diesel, you can feel the difference.

Hope this is a help and gets you out of trouble in the Outback... On the road with the Ranger Wink


Last edited by Bushtracker on Thu Sep 06, 2012 11:00 am; edited 1 time in total
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The Hob



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had to replace fuel filter on the side of the freeway. Always carry a couple of them in case of dirty fuel.

I was lucky as I only had to do a single change to clear the problem. The bottom of the filter housing was covered in dirt.

Alan
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Jeff&Narelle@Alice



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I have also just added an additional filter / water separator after the factory unit for extra precaution. Bought it as a kit from Diesel Care.
Regards
Jeff
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BobNLyn



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Steve

Lots of us also have 100 Series Landcruisers...
A step by step illustrated guide for us would also be very popular!
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surfy53



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know where you get the time Steve.
I have copied and pasted this article to our laptops and sticks for future reference. This is a great help.
Thanks.
Chris.
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aubs



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing wrong with this, The United Servo at Elliot in NT sold a bad batch of fuel about 4 weeks back, vehicles were pulled up anywhere from 50kms to 200kms up the road, they all had the same problem and all got fuel at the same place.

I have 2 prefilters before the main, and the Canter is no where as complicated as what you have in common rail engines. So every bit of advice is always helpfull. Though not in my case.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one if for BobNLyn.... Per request....
Sorry a bit late, been getting ready for our 4th and hopefully BEST DVD ever, available around Christmas... Been a bit busy..



For those of you with the 100 Series, this is a lot simpler, less high tech so to speak... The filter is basically in the same position, and uses the same pump, but the filter itself is a spin on... Here are a few tricks you need to be aware of: It is a spin on filter, but double ended, and the water sensor is at the bottom.. (Here shown an aftermarket Donaldson filter, but they are the same as the stock Toyota one only cheaper)



Now, you have to unplug that water sensor, here is what it looks like, a short wire to a connector undone much the same as on the 200 series with just a locking tab you have to undo.. In theory you could unscrew that first from the bottom of the filter, but I find it much easier done to unscrew the entire filter with it left on, that is why you have to unplug it first... Wink



You may need a filter wrench to get it started, then hand unthread as shown. Slightly lube the O-Ring seal with a little diesel, hand tighten the water sensor and then hand tighten the whole filter back in place to put it back on. Make sure you do not cross thread it, it should spin on effortlessly until it bottoms out on the o-ring.. That is usually enough but some people are stronger than others so: The rule of thumb is hand tighten as hard as you can, then use a filter wrench to turn it about another 1/2 turn... Get the filter wrench ( el cheapo) of the webbing band and the ratchet end sort for attachment to a socket ratchet..) Wink



Now the pump is basically the same, and in the same location as the 200 Series shown above. Make sure to prime the filter, you undo the hose that goes TO the engine.. The clamp is easy, just a squeeze clamp and slide the hose most of the way off so you can pump out the air as you fill the filter. It could be 30 or 40 pumps til you get diesel, then slide the hose back on as you pump the last, and move the clamp back over the hose... Wink



You are done... No worries, and the lone Road Ranger suggest you carry a few extra filters.... Never know, and it is cheap insurance..

Kind regards, on the road......
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Grumblebum and the Dragon



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Steve,
In the 100 series demo above - the set-up is the same as my unit with just a single fuel filter. Is is worth putting in either a second filter or pre-filter inline as extra insurance.

in 2010 we blew a hole on No 3 piston - turned out to be a badly worn injector pump (full of fine sand) and partially blocked injector caused a hot-spot on the piston.

Since then a re-built engine has been installed with consevative turbo settings and going very well. The biggest cost with a failure like this is the recovery from deep woop woop like like Gibson Desert, then add the cost of a new motor Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Fortunately mine happened just south of Mackay - for which I am thankful.

The cost of an extra filter seems like cheap insurance.

Cheers John
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Podargus



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 78 Series has a prefilter with a paper cartridge type element inside a steel bowl. It is mounted beside the main filter.You may be able to pick up one second hand.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re injectors, I've used fuel treatment since new and after 210,000 km there doesn't appear to be any problem with the injectors. This usually manifests as blowing black smoke under load.

I used Nulon first up in a 20 litre drum.It takes years to get through that amount.I'm now on Fuel Doctor in a 5 litre container.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello John,

I am in Wallabadah or what ever the spelling is, on a two week or more DVD filming tour testing new gear, so I cannot show you the marine style dewatering filters I have used for 30 year... They are a solid metal mount, dewatering spin on fuel filter with a clear bowl on the bottom, with a drain to let water out. Common ones in the Marine Industry, are like Racor or Par-Jabsco, with a T handle at the top and a drop in cartridge. The purpose of the bowl is a quick glance to see water collecting and a quick opening to drain it out. I have had them on all my trucks, algae/fungal, and dewatering filter with the visual check bowl. Then if you do get bad diesel, you need a biocide fuel treatment for algae and fungus like Afloc, or Bio-Bor, one of the good Marine ones..

John, as a matter of fact I just bought a cannister/clear inspection bowl filter, before we left on Thursday. It is a one liter cannister job for my MAN 4x4 12 speed Road Ranger truck with air driven auto/manual shifting... The problem is finding a location for it in the smaller cruiser. At a truck supply place you can get the same system with a smaller filter, and just find a location on the firewall to put in place with room to see and drain the clear bowl at the bottom. So yes, if you can find the room it is a great idea for a prefilter, but room under the bonnet of a Cruiser, is a premium... Heh he...

Kind regards... on the road, Ranger
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Grumblebum and the Dragon



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Appreciate that Steve, My cuurent single filter has the glass bowl water trap on the bottom. I might hunt up a pre-filter and am pretty sure I can find space to install it.

Many thanks

John
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rover



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Steve,
I had the same warning come up in my LC200 and had to call Toyota Assist from the side of the road for advice. I don't recall the exact procedure they wanted me to try but I think it included switching the ignition on and off 3 times in quick succession to clear the alarm.

Discussion on the LCOOL website suggests the warning alarm is more likely to occur when accelerating hard such as when overtaking. There are also warnings about adding additional or modified fuel filters. It would be tempting to install an after market fuel filter but this apparently is a total no no.

Keep up the good work.
Andy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Cowboy, this is the second time I have used the above information to fix water in the fuel filter in my 200 Series.
Works a treat, just got to try and keep away from those "dirty" servo's.
Chris.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...why not provide a list of "those dirty servo's"??? I "guess" privacy comes into play!!! Damn...

Also, rover, why is it a "no-no" to have the "after market" filters. Can you expand on the reasoning or provide a source for further reading please?

Regards,

Craig
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The Hob



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had to change 3 filters in 130k in my 200 series.

It is not a case of dirty fuel in one fill up but rather an accumulation of debris over several tanks and the filter is made super fine to protect the injectors.

It is a simple job to do and far far far cheaper than injectors

Alan
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surfy53



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I think it is more like an accumulation of crap in the filter. However, it could be water, but where I have been getting my fuel lately way out west, it is near impossible to know who the "dirty" ones are.
If I knew who they were I would not hesitate to name them.
This is the second time I have replaced the filter in 115,000 k's.
And I also have a secondary fuel filter fitted by DieselCare in Dalby.
Chris.
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datama



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris et al,
I assume you have an LC200 and was interested in your comment "secondary fuel filter fitted by DieselCare in Dalby."

What type/model and brand is the filter please and is it fitted before or after the genuine LC200 filter and is it also wired in to the LC warning light.
Curious to know for my sake as a few varied sources say including from what I have gleaned on LCOOL, a very reputable diesel centre in NSW, an LC200 should not have any after market fuel filter fitted but like you, I have concerns also, so am just data gathering if you would not mind responding please.

Regards,
Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Road Ranger here:

The OP of this Post......... Look, you can get aftermarket filters with the same micron filtering as the stock Toyota ones. I have a half dozen in case I got a bad lot of fuel out west, like in the old days.... But if you were taking it into Toyota for an Injection System Warranty Claim? You better have the Factory Original Toyota ones in place...

You would not want to get into an argument about some claim they had that the aftermarket filter was partially or solely to blame for the breakdown, or failure to set off the "water in fuel alarm" or anything like that....

Someone else bargained and got a half dozen original filters at a discount from their Dealer.. Wink
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D&T



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I change my filter every second service to address the build up issue. That strategy obviously won't work for bad fuel/water but sure beats changing one out on the side of the road in 40+ deg temperature unnecessarily.

First and only occurrence was at 30 000kms accelerating up a large hill. Have now done 80 000kms without further issue.

Not expensive and puts the mind at ease. Also carry spares for when the unforeseen occurs.

Cheers
Richard
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surfy53



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave, yes I do have a 2010 LC 200.
Diesel Care in Dalby have several stores in Qld and Northern NSW, and they are also very reputable.
I had them install a secondary unit, Fuel Manager with a filter of about 2 microns. This will remove finer particles of debris and grit, and any remaining water and contaminates that get through the factory filter. This final filter doesn't need to be replaced as often as the factory fitted filter.
I carry two replacement filters for each unit.
The cost to have it fitted was around $350 and took 1 1/4 hrs. The car was also tested for correct fuel flow. Diesel Care also provide a DIY kit with brackets and instructions for your model car.
Now I am no expert or guru on this stuff, most of my info is gleaned from those who are in the know. You have been warned, but I think there are many out there with a secondary filter.
Chris.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 5:14 pm    Post subject: Secondary fuel filter!! Reply with quote

Surfy,
Would you need the filter connected? I mean with fuel lines attached or is it just a matter of mounting it there!!!
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had a "Waterwatch" filter fitted between the fuel tank and factory filter on my 200 series Landcruiser, it has a warning light and audible alarm which come on once 5mg of water have collected in the glass bowl, it is then just a matter of turning the valve on the bottom of the bowl to drain the water, this prevent any water and particles from reaching the factory filter, it is manufactured by Responsive Engineering of the ACT and won a award on the Inventors TV show on the ABC, it cost $840.00 fitted which may sound expensive but is cheap insurance against the cost of replacing a damaged fuel pump and injectors.

DB
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Ah, yes. I didn't see that. Grabbed that pic off the net as my photo would not upload.
This is my setup on the 200. The Fuel Manager is the one with the black top at the back.
It's a tight fit but you can still work on the original filter if needed.
Chris.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will also need to tell them if you have a third battery in the 200 series as then they will send you a bracket and kit that mounts on the drivers side near the brake reservoir.

Regards
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I change my fuel filter every 10k as per Berrima Diesels advice. I am currently doing a quick trip around the block at the moment towing a 3.2t van and the cruiser is also loaded. I have no additional filtration and so far, apart from two occasions, have used solely BP fuels. No issues and am halfway down the West coast of WA at the moment. I check for water by draining a bit off now and again but have not seen anything to comment on in just over 9,000klms.
Just my experience to date.

Edit. I purchase my genuine Toyota fuel filters from Lexus of Miami and the last lot worked out at $24 each. I also buy my oil filters there too at $5 each plus postage. They worked out at $10 each (last order) including postage.
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